Our previous book reviews have been about exciting, interesting and useful reads on sustainable dietary habits. Unfortunately this one isn't. The Art of Eating In, possibly isn't the worst book I've ever read, but it is certainly in the running.
The book is a collection of anecdotes and stories from Cathy, who -for somewhat inexplicable reasons- has chosen not to eat out in New York. Cathy shares with us her revelations that home-cooking is cheaper, healthier and sometimes tastier than eating out. I fully acknowledge that I entered into the relationship in complete knowledge of Cathy's agenda, however, ever the aficionado of a good foodie book, I was willing to put aside my concern over the underlying premise of Cathy's 'journey'. I shouldn't have. It was dire.
'Well I decided to give home cooking gimmick of my own. To eat for a prolonged period of time without the assistance of restaurants whatsoever. Was that something that a New York-born, New Jersey-bred, working, middle-class, twenty six year-old American such as myself could achieve?'
It's certainly a question that only a "New York-born, New Jersey-bred, working, middle-class, twenty six year-old American" would pose. The book's accompanying website suggests we 'join the challenge' and 'eat in for a week'. WTAF
The book offers us insight into Cathy's homecooking: including her first foray into bread making where -despite claiming to be an avid cook- she states " I didn't think I'd ever seen one of these packages of yeast before". Unfortunately I ignored this giant flag to "STOP READING NOW!"
To be fair, Cathy is clearly a keen and competent cook but does she 'homecook' like normal people? Does she hell. Her dinners always appear to take hours of preparation and end up on the table at 11pm at night. Occasionally she tries to excite us by listing those things she just 'threw in a pan': I cannot believe that she doesn't realise this is how most people usually cook/eat.
In the book Cathy marks her visits with freegans; supper clubs and cook-offs in an attempt to widen her culinary horizon. This could have been really interesting, perhaps if she told us some more background or studies or facts about any of these things, then I might have been more interested. As it was we heard Cathy's non-too-deep thoughts on the matters: "I didn't feel that I was sacrificing my health by having meat only once or twice a week. On the contrary you could argue less meat in our diets keeps humans and the earth healthier".
I'm not sure who the target audience was, but I am sure I wouldn't like to meet them!
The one thing that struck me in the book was when Cathy estimates her grocery bill for a week of 'eating in' to be $25 which is about 160 sek, £15, €19. What?! I knew food prices in America were artificially low, but that is ridiculous: especially when you read about the kind of food Cathy was cooking.
I think this sums up my problem with all these 'extreme diet' books. Some try and make ethical points but many end up as money making gimmicks and fail to address real problems. The market is flooded with these 'food challenge' books and the underlying points about the unsustainability of our food systems seem to become lost in the process. How have we reached a stage in human development where it can be an 'alternative' lifestyle to cook at home?
The Seasonal Beets are trying to encourage people to eat chose seasonal foods and cook sustainably, but have we underestimated the size of the problem? Do we need to actually go back to basics and teach people the benefits of homecooking? I hope not.
To be fair I feel that whilst Cathy might be a bit misguided, she's not malicious in her writing and she is attempting to encourage more sustainable eating. For that reason I suggest you check out her blog and also our next 2 postings which are my attempts at making some of Cathy's recipes a little more time-friendly.